Shirt making #2
Today I was focusing on the sleeves. The size length and the way that it fitted the shoulder and under the armpit.
I found this part of the making process to be particularly interesting as the sleeve has to be able to move in nearly every single direction without restricting the movement of the person wearing it. So what I found was that you need to be very precise.
So like if you make sleeve fit to tightly around shoulder and you move your arm forwards then you end up moving the entire Eurasian plate and cause and earthquake in Japan.
Basically every slight curve and millimetre counts.
The first sleeve I made in my Calico experiment had a little bit to much room in the shoulder and was very tight under the armpit.
So in my second sleeve I dropped the armpit by about 2cm and made the curve or the armhole a lot flatter on the head. This therefore dropped the shoulder making it much more fitted (Showing off my manly shoulders) and lowered the armpits just enough so I could move my arm up and down without pulling up the bottom of the shirt as well.
I've also decided to have the sleeves in a permanently rolled up style. I find from experience when wearing shirts like this that it allows the arm to be able to move more freely especially around the elbow and in my opinion (depending on the shirt) makes it look better, which it definitely does in this case.
to make sure that the sleeves stay rolled up I decided to make a tab which in the real shirt can attach to a button the hold the rolled up sleeve in place. But I had to decide if I wanted to have the tab quite loose so it flopped down like a bad Friday night or if it stayed quite tight to the sleeve itself.
I personally decided that the tighter fitting tab looked better as the looser fitting style just looked like it was an add on rather than a part of the shirt.
Oh and excuse the poor stitching, I just wanted to get an idea for how the tabs would fit. I know that on the actual shirt the stitching (if you can see it) will be "top notch"
So today I figured out how I want my sleeve to fit and what style I want it to look like.
Oh and also some of the third years asked me to do some modelling which was interesting to say the least. It's fair to say that I was extremely uncomfortable. Especially considering that around 7 people were looking at me who I had never met before.
Apparently they all need a guy who is at least 6ft and not "lanky" which is why they came to me... I'm not sure how they knew how tall I was considering I was sat down at the time.
It was a laugh though! I threw some poses that I thought were at least appropriate... I'm not sure if they were just giggling or if it was just an uncomfortable silence that I didn't notice...
Meh I owned it....
To fabulous anywayz
I found this part of the making process to be particularly interesting as the sleeve has to be able to move in nearly every single direction without restricting the movement of the person wearing it. So what I found was that you need to be very precise.
So like if you make sleeve fit to tightly around shoulder and you move your arm forwards then you end up moving the entire Eurasian plate and cause and earthquake in Japan.
Basically every slight curve and millimetre counts.
So in my second sleeve I dropped the armpit by about 2cm and made the curve or the armhole a lot flatter on the head. This therefore dropped the shoulder making it much more fitted (Showing off my manly shoulders) and lowered the armpits just enough so I could move my arm up and down without pulling up the bottom of the shirt as well.
I've also decided to have the sleeves in a permanently rolled up style. I find from experience when wearing shirts like this that it allows the arm to be able to move more freely especially around the elbow and in my opinion (depending on the shirt) makes it look better, which it definitely does in this case.
to make sure that the sleeves stay rolled up I decided to make a tab which in the real shirt can attach to a button the hold the rolled up sleeve in place. But I had to decide if I wanted to have the tab quite loose so it flopped down like a bad Friday night or if it stayed quite tight to the sleeve itself.
I personally decided that the tighter fitting tab looked better as the looser fitting style just looked like it was an add on rather than a part of the shirt.
 |
| Tighter fitting (preferred) |
 |
| Looser fitting |
So today I figured out how I want my sleeve to fit and what style I want it to look like.
Oh and also some of the third years asked me to do some modelling which was interesting to say the least. It's fair to say that I was extremely uncomfortable. Especially considering that around 7 people were looking at me who I had never met before.
Apparently they all need a guy who is at least 6ft and not "lanky" which is why they came to me... I'm not sure how they knew how tall I was considering I was sat down at the time.
It was a laugh though! I threw some poses that I thought were at least appropriate... I'm not sure if they were just giggling or if it was just an uncomfortable silence that I didn't notice...
Meh I owned it....
To fabulous anywayz
Comments